How to build a wooden bike wall mount yourself

In short: With a few tools, you can build a simple wooden bike wall mount yourself in an afternoon: a back board, two support arms, felt to protect the frame, plus suitable screws and wall plugs for your wall. What matters for safety is not the wooden parts, but how the arms are joined to the board and how the mount is fixed to the wall. If you have few tools or want a finished piece of furniture, a bought mount is often the better option.

What do I need for a homemade wooden mount?

These instructions describe a horizontal mount: the top tube rests on two arms that stick out from a back board. This is the simplest form and works for bikes with a continuous top tube.

Material	Note
Back board, hardwood (e.g. oak or beech), about 2.5–3 cm thick	choose the width so the arms are far enough apart (see below)
Two support arms, hardwood battens, about 4 × 4 cm	length about 25–35 cm, depending on the handlebars and distance from the wall
Wood glue (waterproof)	for joining arm and board
Wood screws, long enough for board and arm	from the back through the board into the arms
Felt or cork, self-adhesive	frame protection on the contact surfaces
Wall screws and wall plugs	suitable for your wall – not just “any old ones”
Oil or varnish (optional)	for looks and to protect the surface

Tools: saw (ideally a mitre saw or a saw with a guide), cordless screwdriver, drill with wood and masonry bits, countersink, sandpaper, clamps, spirit level, folding rule, pencil and a cable detector.

How do I build the mount step by step?

1. Measure your bike: Measure the straight length of your top tube, the tube diameter and the handlebar width. The arms should be far enough apart for the bike to rest balanced – usually a spacing of about 25–35 cm.
2. Cutting: Cut the board and arms to size. Make sure the cuts on the arms are square, otherwise the bike will hang crooked.
3. Shape the rest (optional): A shallow hollow or a slight lip on the front edge of the arms stops the bike from sliding forward. Even a small glued-on strip helps.
4. Sanding: Round off all edges and sand them smooth, especially where the frame rests.
5. Join the arms: Mark the position, apply glue to the arms, fix them with clamps and screw each one from the back through the board with two screws. Pre-drill and countersink the holes so the wood does not split and the screw heads do not stick out.
6. Let it dry: Let the glue cure according to the manufacturer's instructions before you continue.
7. Surface: If you like, oil or varnish the mount. Let it dry well.
8. Stick on the felt: On both contact surfaces, so the paint on your frame does not get scratched.
9. Holes for the wall: At least two, ideally four holes in the back board, well spaced and away from the edge.

How do I fix the mount securely to the wall?

This is what determines whether your bike hangs safely. Check the wall for electrical cables and water pipes with a cable detector first. In concrete and solid brick, suitable expansion plugs hold well; in perforated brick and aerated concrete you need plugs designed for them. For plasterboard, metal cavity plugs help – or you screw into a stud in the wall. Read the load ratings on the wall plug packaging and plan in a generous margin. We explain this in detail in our Installation Guide.

What do I need to bear in mind for safety?

• Do not guess the load capacity, test it: First hang some weight on by hand and load the mount slowly before the bike hangs on it permanently.
• Consider the leverage: The longer the arms, the harder the bike pulls on the upper wall screws.
• No softwood for the arms: Spruce or pine are cheap, but are more likely to give way at the joint.
• Check regularly: Especially in the first few weeks, check whether any screws have come loose or cracks have formed.
• No heavy bikes: E-bikes weighing around 20–28 kg and bikes without a top tube do not belong on a homemade wooden mount.

When is buying the better decision?

Building it yourself is fun and cheap if you already have tools and wood. Honestly, though, in some cases a ready-made mount makes more sense:

• You do not have a mitre saw and have no experience with wood joints.
• The bike hangs in the living room and should look like a piece of furniture.
• You want extras such as a shelf or a storage compartment – that takes a lot of effort to build yourself.
• You do not want to deal with the load capacity yourself.

Our mounts are made to order from oak and birch in a carpentry workshop in Germany, are designed for about 20 kg (Henry and Max about 18 kg) and come with screws and wall plugs for masonry and concrete walls. Closest to the DIY idea are the simple 8-sided stacks Henry; with a shelf, there is Franz-Josef, for example. You can check whether your bike fits in the Fitting Guide. Our mounts are not suitable for step-through bikes and heavy e-bikes either.

We compare which material is suitable for what in Wood or metal.

Frequently asked questions

Which wood is suitable for a bike mount?

Hardwood such as oak or beech. It is dimensionally stable and holds screws well. Softwood is fine for the back board, but hardwood is the safer choice for the support arms.

How much does a homemade mount cost?

That depends heavily on the wood and on which tools you already have. If you need to buy tools first, a ready-made mount is often no more expensive.

Will a wooden mount hold on plasterboard?

Yes, with suitable metal cavity plugs or by screwing into a stud. Standard expansion plugs do not hold reliably in plasterboard.

How high should I hang the mount?

So that you can lift the bike comfortably and the pedals and handlebars stay clear. Hold the bike against the wall at the desired height beforehand and mark the position.